lunes, 27 de agosto de 2012

Welcome Back to Punta del Este

Welcome Back to Punta del Este

25th August 2012

Although feeling slightly rough, I had a great night's sleep and no doubt snored like a pig!

The weather in Punta del Este, Uruguay has been pretty awful since I've been away Iguazu. Having said that, I welcomed a bit of cold.

As it was early afternoon, I took my Mom out for a drive along the coastline to see what we could see, before scrumping for firewood and cones. Well, neither of us expected to see what we did. What a way to be welcomed back to Punta del Este...

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Rainbow at La Barra

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Double Rainbow

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Close Up

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Sea Foam!

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More Sea Foam

Home Bound and Delayed



Home Bound and Delayed

24th August 2012

That was the first good night’s sleep I’ve had in days! I only woke up twice! Although I’m still feeling rough, I’m excited to be going home. I guess Room 13 wasn’t so bad after all. You can’t help but miss the comforts you usually take for granted; things like hot water, instant coffee (talk about letting the side down), a comfy bed you can stretch out in and the list goes on. It’ll be nice to see the parents too, although I have been speaking to them every day.

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Yesterday: Looking Over to Brazil from Argentina

10.00 – Time to check out and begin the journey home. Rather than dragging my suitcase around with me (cobbled roads and suitcases don’t mix too well) looking for somewhere to have breakfast, I decided to just head straight over to the airport. Check in is a 13.45. Maybe there’ll be somewhere at the airport to grab a coffee and a gallon of water (my mouth and throat are like the Sahara Dessert)

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Infected Mosquito Bites... Lovely!

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10.30 – Arrived at Cataratas del Iguazu airport. There’s no checking in until an hour before the flight. There’s very little at the airport, a couple of precious stone jewellery shops and a handful of car rental offices.

Flight is on time, that’s the main thing. There’s a private jet going straight to Punta del Este. Do you think they’ll let me jump on board and join them? Even though Punta del Este is the closest airport, it’s very small and not a lot of flights fly there. Instead I’m flying into the main Uruguayan airport of Montevideo, the capital city.

Actually, I did check if there were flights to Punta del Este from Iguazu. There weren’t. I tried two separate flights (multiple destinations) – Cataratas del Iguazu to Jorge Newberry, Buenos Aires to Punta del Este, Uruguay and the flights were around $600-$1,000!! Crazy!

Looking around, I feel like a British tourist in Spain! Everyone is wrapped up warmly, some in thick jumpers and/or coats. I’m sweating like Michael Jackson in a Kindergarten, wishing I hadn’t worn jogging bottoms and sitting as close to an air conditioning as possible!

Call me strange but “people-watching” always fascinates me. Everyone’s different whether it’s their nationality, dress sense or just the way they carry themselves. So many females, mainly the Brazilians, dress up to travel as if it were a special occasion. Looking down at myself, I can’t help but feel like an utter slob. I chose comfort over style on most occasions, especially traveling! How can ladies wear such high heels to travel in? My feet hurt after just 10 minutes – and that’s when I’m just sitting down, breaking the shoes in!

11.25 – I’m a plonker! There is an upstairs. Originally I thought you had to go through security and customs to get to the upstairs area. Turns out, you don’t. All the gates are up here. All four of them. There are a couple more precious stone shops, some of the items are lovely but the price tag is enough to make Bill Gates gawk! Stopping off at the café/bar I bought a can of Pepsi for 18.50 Argentinian pesos, that’s about $4. Daylight robbery. You do have a great view from the café window though. It’s overlooking the airport runway. A LAN plane has just touched down.

14.05 – At my gate. There was a slight confusion at security as two flights are leaving from the same gate, within a short space of time and both heading to Buenos Aires. Those on Aerolineas Argentina had to step to the side to let LAN passengers go through first. We were then notified that our plane would be delayed by 25minutes because of the confusion and to allow the plane’s turn around. 

While waiting to go through security, I met an Austrailian couple. Poor buggers didn’t understand what the hell was going on so I translated that we were going to be delayed for 25 minutes and so on. I really do take being bilingual for granted sometimes. It’s going to take the couple 30 hours to get back home to Austrailia. “That’s 30 hours flying time, without the stops and change overs” I was informed. Ouch!

Just seen our plane touch down and it’s now taxiing over to the terminal. This is going to be one quick turnaround.

Fatigue is starting to kick in. I’m too scared to sleep on the plane in case I start snoring. The thought still disgusts me! I wish I was more like my Dad: Don't care about it, snore like a pig, wake up and blame it all onto someone else!

15.00 – Take off! There wasn’t a delay. Instead we were taken to another gate and started boarding straight away.  There are quite a few English speaking people on the plane, much to my surprise. I’m even sitting next to a rugby fan from the UK.

17.30 – The plane has arrived in Buenos Aires and I’m partially deaf! 

My last flight, from Buenos Aires to Montevideo has been cancelled. Frantically running around, I had to go downstairs to the arrivals hall for a new flight ticket. When I asked why the flight had been cancelled, the attendant shrugged “Your flight hasn’t been cancelled. Just changed”.

My new flight time is at 19.05.

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The World Going By - Buenos Aires, Argentina

Rushing around, I was desperate to find somewhere to contact home and let my parents know about the change of arrival. Walking into an internet café, there was a minimum charge of $5 for thirty minutes. Finding a phone box, I tried calling my parent’s house only to discover international calls weren’t allowed. At an airport and no international calls?!

With nothing to do for the next couple of hours, I pootled around the airport. Passing a coffee shop, I popped into for a quick coffee and small bottle of water. I nearly fell over when the waiter asked for $10. Are you serious? A 500ml bottle of water and a coffee for $10! It’s daylight robbery at its best!

Looking on the bright side, at least I could park my bum for a while, relax and type up my blog entries. Having said that, I can’t wait to get home! 

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18.20 – I’m slightly confused. My flight is due to depart in 45 minutes and there’s still no gate number appearing on the monitor. “On Time” continues flashing away on the screen. After spending so long in airports, I’m somewhat prepared for two scenarios. The first and most probable, my flight will be delayed. Secondly, the gate number will appear at the last minute and I’d have to peg it through security and to the gate.

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Chubut, Anyone?

18.30 – Delayed! My new flight has been delayed by one hour and five minutes. That’s longer than the actual flight to Montevideo!

It’s becoming rather frustrating. First my flight is cancelled. I’m then put onto a later flight and now that has been delayed by an hour. Take off should now be at the same time I should have been touching down in Montevideo.

My parents are going to be wandering where the hell I am. They must be on their way to the airport now, as it’s a two hour drive from Punta del Este. Will they know I’ve been allocated a seat on another plane?

19.30 – Guess what? My flight has been delayed for the second time. This time, by twenty minutes. My flight is now due to depart at 20.30. Originally, I’d have been home in Punta del Este at 21.00 and here I am, still waiting for my final flight. To be honest, I’m expecting another delay. Not that it makes it any less frustrating.

My poor parents are going to be waiting for ages at Montevideo airport. Selfishly, I hope they are still there and will wait for me. Having said that, I can always get the bus home and ask Dad to pick me up at Punta del Este or Maldonado bus station. It’s a good job the flight time is only 45 minutes!

20.00 – Wahey! I’m finally at my gate, 13C. By the looks of it, the plane is going to be jam packed. Being slightly deaf in one ear is worrying me a little, mainly about taking off and landing. During landing on my first flight, I honestly thought both my ear drums were going to burst! Note to self: don’t fly next time you have a head cold, flu and/or ear ache!

20.05 – So close, yet so still far away. Another delay. The flight is now apparently due for take-off at 20.45. This palaver could test the patience of a Saint!

20.40 – Finally! We’re on the plane… only to be told by the Captain that there’ll be a further delay. The fourth delay, minus a cancellation! Apparently there’s a problem with Air-Traffic Control and the plane is currently waiting for take-off clearance.

The plane is small, but at least there aren’t any propellers in sight! Pretty much everyone on the flight is a businessmen, suited and booted and incredibly annoyed by the delays. I’m sitting next to one them. This guy has the new iPod clipped to his tie and a BlackBerry in each hand! Jammy sod!

My left ear is still playing up, feeling blocked with a throbbing pain going down my neck. Hard boiled sweets aren’t helping either. I’m terrified!

21.00 – Another update from the Captain. Yes, there’s a bit more of a delay. According to him, Air Traffic Control have been delaying flights all day and we’re waiting for a slot for take-off. It was also the reason why my previous flight was cancelled and everyone piled into this later flight.

I know I should have been thinking “it’s better late than never” but all that was swimming through my head was “I should have arrived home by now”.

21.15 and we’re taxiing up the runway!

Home and parents… Here I come!

domingo, 26 de agosto de 2012

Argentina to Brazil



Argentina To Brazil

22nd August 2012

Last night didn’t exactly go smoothly. I was up half the night feeling ill. It must be a cold or flu coming on. Just what you want while traveling! All I want is my nice warm, comfy bed to snuggle up in and sleep.

We’re leaving Puerto de Iguazu, crossing the Argentinian board and into Brazil to Foz do Iguacu. The bus ride is only eight Argentinian pesos, about US$2. Eve and her friend Steph should be arriving late tonight.

Checking out of our little cabin at 10.15, we dragged our cases down the road towards the bus terminal. Quickly checking in a few of the bus companies, none had a bus route to Montevideo, or anywhere in Uruguay for that matter. One company suggested I take three long distance bus rides, two across Argentina and one to Montevideo. Total time on the bus: 30 hours. No, thank you!

It’s hard to believe that no one has a bus service to Uruguay. It’s the only South American country they don’t travel to. Ok, we know the place is a tiny dot on the map but, come on!

First stop on the bus was to pass through Argentinian customs. Luggage must go with you too. It’s a two minute stop, in one door, passport stamped, out another and back on the bus.

Two minutes later and we make our second, longer stop. This time at Brazilian customs. All of us had to fill out Entry Visa papers, get that stamped plus your passport and then wait for another bus. There was a large group of us waiting outside Brazilian customs for about 45 minutes for the bus to arrive. All of us huddled under a tree, staying out of the fierce sun.

Loading our luggage onto the bus again, we started the final part of the bus ride into Foz do Iguacu. Compared to the Argentinian side, the Brazilian is incredibly run down and surprisingly, there’s obviously a lot of poverty.

Not long after we’d entered Brazil there were a couple of surgeries offering everything from implants to botox to liposuctions! I couldn't help but smile to myself.

All of a sudden, the driver slammed on the brakes and the bus screeched harshly to an abrupt halt. Hernan and I were standing and had to quickly grab onto something, anything in front of us. I went crashing into a metal railing in front of me. Turns out, someone on a push bike had cycled out from a side street and crossed over the main road without looking! The bus very narrowly missed him!

Off the bus we had to find out where the hell our hostel is. Hostel Klein. We didn’t have an address or contact number. Hernan popped into the Tourist Information Centre at the bus terminal and got a pamphlet for Hostel Klein. It looks like it’s a well-known place. We couldn’t call as we didn’t have any Reales for the phone, so we decided it’d be best to just get a cab as it was too far to walk.

Walking down the road, looking for a taxi, we bumped into someone who worked for the Tourist Information Centre, who took us to the taxi rank and called for a cab. While waiting we were told a few do's and don’ts about Foz do Iguacu and Brazil.

In Brazil, it’s illegal to hail taxis and for a taxi to pick you up at the side of the road. This is apparently due to the large amount of illegal taxis, many of whom will rob you of everything. The only place to get a taxi is at a designated taxi rank.

Don’t get a taxi over the bridge from Foz do Iguacu to Cuidad del Este, Paraguay. Cuidad del Este is a famous tax free area, popular with tourists shopping for cheap electrical items. Many cross the Brazilian and Argentinian boarders simply to shop for the day. Getting back to the story, many taxis, while crossing over to Brazil or Paraguay, depending on which way you’re going, get held up by armed gangs, half way over the bridge. When you think of Brazil, you mainly think about thieves being tooled up with guns, but we are told they just carry knives, big knives and they won’t think twice about using them on you either. Nice to know! Needless to say, you’ll be robbed of absolutely everything! Of course, the taxi drivers, some legal while others not so legal, are in on the deal and will contact the thieves before setting off.

Fede’s Portuguese has amazed all of us. We imagined he spoke a fair amount due to working on the Mariner of the Seas during Brazilian season, but we certainly didn’t expect him to speak so much and have the ability to hold a conversation about anything other than taking someone’s photo!

Driving through the town, well, city, we headed towards our hostel. Foz do Iguacu is a rundown mess compared to Puerto de Iguazu, Argentina. Poor and run down. Finding the hostel didn’t take too long, but we weren’t exactly optimistic when we saw where we were heading. The area looked one step up from a shanty town, in fact, there were a few partially made (mismatch tin roofs, make shift doors etc.) houses around us.

Pulling up outside Hostel Klein, we were letting off more than a few nervous giggles and “where the hell have the girls booked us into?” The taxi driver really knew how to boost our optimism, telling us “This place isn’t safe. Do you want me to take you somewhere closer to the city centre? The city is dangerous, but this is even worse. You can’t go out here during the evening. Are you sure you don’t want me to take you somewhere else? Somewhere better?” Declining, we pulled our bags out of the car boot and headed towards the entrance of Hostel Klein feeling rather dubious, I might add.

Hostel Klein, the first thing that you notice about the place is the two metre high wall surrounding the perimeter. On top of that, are the two sets of wires on top of the wall with numerous warning signs “Electric – May Cause Death”. Ringing the intercom with camera, we were allowed through the large security gate to be met at the front door. As you can imagine, we were glowing with enthusiasm!

Going to our “room” to drop our luggage off, Hernan summed it up in one word: Orphanage. We were staying in the equivalent of an orphanage. One large room (which we later found out was originally a garage) with 13, small single beds lining the walls. In one corner was a small bathroom for us. 

As it’s out of season, the five of us, when the girls arrive, will probably have the room to ourselves. Thank God! I may sound like a snob, but I don’t fancy sharing a room with a bunch of strangers, especially with a Canon 5D Mark II stuffed into my backpack! As Hernan commented on the way over “you’re not cut out for this type of traveling.”

Next stop was the shopping centre to change Dollars to Reales and get something to eat. We were starving!

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Imagine this room with twice as many beds!

sábado, 25 de agosto de 2012

Iguazu Falls


Iguazu Falls

21st August 2012

After traveling and a late night, we had a bit of a lay in. The heat woke me up at 9am. Shifting the curtain to the side a little, the weather was lovely, no doubt it’ll be another scorcher. All of a sudden, to my left, I caught sight on someone. Sitting on a balcony area, staring straight at me was the English woman from last night, who we affectionately named “Pyscho Killer”. Dropping the curtain, I could still see a little from the slight in between the two. Surely enough she was still watching my window!

Fede made the sandwiches, I sorted the coffees and Hernan focused on staying awake.
Our hostel is a short walk from the bus terminal where you’ll find around 40 bus companies offering pretty much everything. Stopping off at a company called Rio Uruguay, we picked up our bus tickets to the Cataratas del Iguazu/Iguazu Falls. A return ticket will cost you 50 Argentinian pesos (US$10). It’s a short trip, about 20 minutes until you’re in the National Park.

Staff at Rio Uruguay warned us, well, me, about the price differences. His advice was for either Hernan or Fede to order the tickets and I stay well out of sight and keep quite. Why? I had no idea until we got to the National Park’s entrance. The price you pay is determined by your country of residence/origin.
Entrance Fees:

Argentina – 50 Argentinian Pesos (US$10 approx.)

Paraguay, Uruguay, Chile and Brazil – 90 Argentinian Pesos (US$18 approx.)

Other Countries – 130 Argentinian Pesos (US$26 approx.)

I don’t know whether I was more shocked or insulted that the prices are displayed so freely. Unfortunately the plan didn’t work as we all had to show I.D. so I was felt to pay full whack. Of course, they thought it was great that they got in for a much cheaper price, on the other hand, I didn’t. It’s not the first time I’ve seen the discounted prices for Argentinians, but it is the first I’d experienced it. Argentina sure has a way of welcoming the tourists to their country – by biting the hand that helps feed them!

Once inside the National Park of Iguazu, the entrance fee was forgotten about. I’ll do my best to describe everything, but it won’t justify anything! Words can’t even begin to describe how amazing Iguazu Falls is.

Rather than taking the train, a free service, that runs you around the National Park, we decided to walk. It was a great choice! If you can walk, walk. You’ll miss out on so much if you do decide to take the train.

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Hernan and Fede - Walking One of the Many Trails

Massive ant against Hernan's hand
As we were walking along one of the tracks to the lower falls, I spotted a massive ant. Living in Spain introduced me to large ants. This Iguazu ant made the Spanish ants look minuscule. It was easily an inch long with enormous curved nippers. You wouldn’t want to get bitten by one of those buggers, that’s for sure! 

We had our eyes peeled for exotic birds and animals. Tucans can often be found in the National Park but hard to spot. The same goes for monkies. Coati’s are as common as grey squirrels in England. 

Walking the Upper Trail

Salto Escondido, Salto San Martin and Salto Mbigua. Upper Trail

Coming to a junction we decided to walk the 650 metre Upper Trail. You’re just above the waterfalls and get a great sense of how high the waterfalls actually are. It may be a bit hairy if you’re scared of heights. We got a great views of Salto Dos Hermanas, Salto Chico, Salto Ramirez, Salto Bossetti, Salto Eva, Salto Adan and Salto Bernabe Mendez from above. From the Upper Trail you can also see Salto Mbigua, Salto San Martin and Salto Escondido. Having said that, it’s not the best place to see the last three falls. That’s down on the Lower Trail.

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Watching the greeny water pelt down the water fall, crashing down into a huge mist-like cloud of water is unbelievably amazing. You don’t realize how high up, yet so close to the crest of the waterfall, you are until you are there.
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Around the paths is a jungle like area where the birds perch themselves onto a branch and watch you. Obviously used to the people constantly milling around the waterfalls, it was so easy to get close and take photos. Unfortunately, I don’t know the name in English, but one of the most common exotic birds we saw was the Urraca Común. The Urraca Común was far more intrigued by us!
Urraca Común
Crossing the bridge to start the Lower Trail, we saw a small crowd of people staring up into the trees suspended over the river. A little boy had spotted a Grand Tucan. According to the Parque Nacional Iguazu guide pamphlet Grand Tucans “are the centre of attention during the early hours of the morning and early evening.” We were visiting in the middle of the day so we were obviously quite lucky to spot one.

Grand Tucan (Hernan's Photo)
Heading down the Lower Trail which directed us towards Salto Dos Hermanas, Salto Chico, Salto Alvar Nuñez and Salto Lanusse. The trail is approximately 1,400 metres and takes roughly two hours to get around. This time, you’re either midway down the waterfalls or further along the trail, right at the base.

Right at the end of the Lower Trail is Salto Ramirez. It’s a great photo opportunity (if you have a waterproof camera). Be prepared to get soaked as you are only a couple of metres away from the waterfall’s base. You are literally at the edge of the water cloud provided by the waterfall chute crashing into the pool below. It’s surprising just how loud it is too. Absolutely incredible!

Hernan & Fede at Salto Dos Hermanas
Base of Salto Dos Hermanas
Can You Spot Us?
Along the lower trail, about midway along, there’s a fantastic stop off point with an outstanding panoramic view of the waterfalls. The scale of the waterfalls, amount of water gushing down the chutes into a mist of spray is absolutely immense. You can’t help but gawk at the sight and sheer size of it all!
Next we made our way down the Macuco Trail, a 7,000 metre path towards Salto Arrechea. The twin waterfalls, both approximately 20 metres high, are the lowest point of Iguazu. The guide book says (this is a rough translation): “For a millennia, here were the falls which were retreating to its current location by erosion of the river bed. Today the area has several courses of water flowing in the Iguazu River.”

Salto Arrechea on theMacuco Trail
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Along the Lower Trail

Stopping for something to eat, we became a huge point of interest for the coatis. There are warnings everywhere about not feeding the coatis and that the animal, from the raccoon family, can give you nasty bites. The coatis are cute looking and many people wrongly mistake them for being friendly creatures, especially as they are so fearless coming up to you. The coatis will obviously think you are a harm to them if you try to grab hold of one and attack. The results, as shown on the warning boards through the park, can be nasty!!

As soon as food is about, along come the coatis, herding towards you. All three of us had to get up from the bench to stop the coatis trying to climb up us to grab our food. Coatis will literally steal the food right out of your hand and rummage around your bag with their long slim noses, dragging out anything that might be of interest!

While standing up eating, we had to keep waving a foot around to keep the coatis at bay. It was absolutely hilarious! Hernan made out I had a coati crawling up my back by padding his hands up me, before grabbing my arm. Obviously, I let out a high pitched, girly scream - much to everyone’s amusement haha!

Coatis sniffing around for food (Hernan's Photo)
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Coatis

Featured in the guide is a small leaflet about being careful while walking around Iguazu National Park. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any pumas or jaguars, could you imagine that? That would be fantastic! The advice the guide gives you is “look it (the animal) in the eyes and don’t run away” – as if you could outrun a wild cat!

If you encounter an aggressive animal, it suggests you “do whatever you can to make yourself appear bigger by standing on a rock (but don’t climb a tree) and raise your hands above your head”. Should the animal attack you “push it away from you as hard as possible”. It’s always good to know what you should do in case a puma or jaguar attacks you!

There are a large amount of snakes around the park, but we didn’t get to see one. We were lucky enough to not spot a spider. Quite honestly, if I’d have spotted a beasty looking spider, I’d have run in the opposite direction crying!! Such is my fear of spiders! The advice for finding a spider or snake “don’t touch it” and in case you are looking to find either “don’t put your hand into hollows”. Finally, “if you get bitten, please make your way to the medical centre”.

Back on track, while walking towards the station to get a train to the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo), hawk-eyed Hernan caught sight of a monkey in the trees. They are incredibly hard to spot, but also a rare find. Usually the monkey travel in packs but as far as we could see, this monkey was climbing and jumping from branch to branch on its own. 

This particular monkey we saw was a “Mono Caí” and is only one of four species found in Argentina. Cai monkeys live on a diet of mainly fruits but also some insects and occasionally chicks.

Arriving at the station, we sadly found out we’d missed the last train to Garganta del Diablo by five minutes. It was only 16.00 and we thought we’d have had enough time to get around the entire park before it closed at 18.00. Unfortunately not, and it was too far to walk because of the National Park’s closing time. Instead, we had a bit of a mooch around and popped into the Iguazu National Park Museum.

At around 17.00 we decided to call it a day and head back to our accommodation. As plans have been vague and determined by Eve and her friend, who aren’t even with us yet, I thought we might be able to get a chance to come back tomorrow to go up to Devil’s Throat. That wasn’t possible as Hernan informed me we would be traveling to Foz do Iguacu on the Brazilian side to meet the girls.

It’s such a shame we didn’t make it to Garganta del Diablo, but overall it was an absolutely fantastic day! If you haven’t been to Iguazu Falls, it’s a real must see! We spent around 6 hours wandering around the National Park, taking photos and enjoying the sights!

All Together Now: Me, Fede & Hernan
Fede & Hernan at Salto Alvar Nuñez
Back at the hostel, we all got an update on what is going on. Turns out Eve cannot get to Argentina because her visa and temporary passport will only allow her access to her next country, so she chose Brazil. Ideally, the idea of the temporary passport is to get you home, isn’t it? So, as I said before, Hernan has decided that tomorrow we are traveling over to the Brazilian side. To be honest, I’m unsure of what’s going on as there is so much more to do and see on the Argentinian side and wouldn’t mind staying longer. The lads however seem to be chasing two girls around like lost puppies. Incredibly frustrating from an outsider/girl’s point of view!

I’ve started to feel ill, maybe I’ve had too much sun today or it’s from the air conditioning?

During the evening, Hernan received a message from Image stating they wouldn’t be having him back for another contract. Image fire you three weeks into your vacation? No warning, no notice, just BOOM! Bye bye! He will, however, get his deposit back as he finished his contract. Hernan seems over the moon, but jobs are few and far between in Argentina so it’s a bit worrying what he might do now. Until the time comes to find another job, Hernan is more than happy celebrating being “free from Image”. If that’s the case… then let the party begin!

More photos will be added to my Facebook page: www.facebook.com/ticklephotography and my Flickr account: www.flickr.com/lou_tickle