Home Bound and Delayed

Home Bound and Delayed

24^th August 2012

That was the first good night’s sleep I’ve had in days! I only woke up twice! Although I’m still feeling rough, I’m excited to be going home. I guess Room 13 wasn’t so bad after all. You can’t help but miss the comforts you usually take for granted; things like hot water, instant coffee (talk about letting the side down), a comfy bed you can stretch out in and the list goes on. It’ll be nice to see the parents too, although I have been speaking to them every day.

Yesterday: Looking Over to Brazil from Argentina

10.00 – Time to check out and begin the journey home. Rather than dragging my suitcase around with me (cobbled roads and suitcases don’t mix too well) looking for somewhere to have breakfast, I decided to just head straight over to the airport. Check in is a 13.45. Maybe there’ll be somewhere at the airport to grab a coffee and a gallon of water (my mouth and throat are like the Sahara Dessert)

Infected Mosquito Bites... Lovely!

10.30 – Arrived at Cataratas del Iguazu airport. There’s no checking in until an hour before the flight. There’s very little at the airport, a couple of precious stone jewellery shops and a handful of car rental offices.

Flight is on time, that’s the main thing. There’s a private jet going straight to Punta del Este. Do you think they’ll let me jump on board and join them? Even though Punta del Este is the closest airport, it’s very small and not a lot of flights fly there. Instead I’m flying into the main Uruguayan airport of Montevideo, the capital city.

Actually, I did check if there were flights to Punta del Este from Iguazu. There weren’t. I tried two separate flights (multiple destinations) – Cataratas del Iguazu to Jorge Newberry, Buenos Aires to Punta del Este, Uruguay and the flights were around $600-$1,000!! Crazy!

Looking around, I feel like a British tourist in Spain! Everyone is wrapped up warmly, some in thick jumpers and/or coats. I’m sweating like Michael Jackson in a Kindergarten, wishing I hadn’t worn jogging bottoms and sitting as close to an air conditioning as possible!

Call me strange but “people-watching” always fascinates me. Everyone’s different whether it’s their nationality, dress sense or just the way they carry themselves. So many females, mainly the Brazilians, dress up to travel as if it were a special occasion. Looking down at myself, I can’t help but feel like an utter slob. I chose comfort over style on most occasions, especially traveling! How can ladies wear such high heels to travel in? My feet hurt after just 10 minutes – and that’s when I’m just sitting down, breaking the shoes in!

11.25 – I’m a plonker! There is an upstairs. Originally I thought you had to go through security and customs to get to the upstairs area. Turns out, you don’t. All the gates are up here. All four of them. There are a couple more precious stone shops, some of the items are lovely but the price tag is enough to make Bill Gates gawk! Stopping off at the café/bar I bought a can of Pepsi for 18.50 Argentinian pesos, that’s about $4. Daylight robbery. You do have a great view from the café window though. It’s overlooking the airport runway. A LAN plane has just touched down.

14.05 – At my gate. There was a slight confusion at security as two flights are leaving from the same gate, within a short space of time and both heading to Buenos Aires. Those on Aerolineas Argentina had to step to the side to let LAN passengers go through first. We were then notified that our plane would be delayed by 25minutes because of the confusion and to allow the plane’s turn around. 

While waiting to go through security, I met an Austrailian couple. Poor buggers didn’t understand what the hell was going on so I translated that we were going to be delayed for 25 minutes and so on. I really do take being bilingual for granted sometimes. It’s going to take the couple 30 hours to get back home to Austrailia. “That’s 30 hours flying time, without the stops and change overs” I was informed. Ouch!

Just seen our plane touch down and it’s now taxiing over to the terminal. This is going to be one quick turnaround.

Fatigue is starting to kick in. I’m too scared to sleep on the plane in case I start snoring. The thought still disgusts me! I wish I was more like my Dad: Don't care about it, snore like a pig, wake up and blame it all onto someone else!

15.00 – Take off! There wasn’t a delay. Instead we were taken to another gate and started boarding straight away.  There are quite a few English speaking people on the plane, much to my surprise. I’m even sitting next to a rugby fan from the UK.

17.30 – The plane has arrived in Buenos Aires and I’m partially deaf! 

My last flight, from Buenos Aires to Montevideo has been cancelled. Frantically running around, I had to go downstairs to the arrivals hall for a new flight ticket. When I asked why the flight had been cancelled, the attendant shrugged “Your flight hasn’t been cancelled. Just changed”.

My new flight time is at 19.05.

The World Going By - Buenos Aires, Argentina

Rushing around, I was desperate to find somewhere to contact home and let my parents know about the change of arrival. Walking into an internet café, there was a minimum charge of $5 for thirty minutes. Finding a phone box, I tried calling my parent’s house only to discover international calls weren’t allowed. At an airport and no international calls?!

With nothing to do for the next couple of hours, I pootled around the airport. Passing a coffee shop, I popped into for a quick coffee and small bottle of water. I nearly fell over when the waiter asked for $10. Are you serious? A 500ml bottle of water and a coffee for $10! It’s daylight robbery at its best!

Looking on the bright side, at least I could park my bum for a while, relax and type up my blog entries. Having said that, I can’t wait to get home! 

18.20 – I’m slightly confused. My flight is due to depart in 45 minutes and there’s still no gate number appearing on the monitor. “On Time” continues flashing away on the screen. After spending so long in airports, I’m somewhat prepared for two scenarios. The first and most probable, my flight will be delayed. Secondly, the gate number will appear at the last minute and I’d have to peg it through security and to the gate.

Chubut, Anyone?

18.30 – Delayed! My new flight has been delayed by one hour and five minutes. That’s longer than the actual flight to Montevideo!

It’s becoming rather frustrating. First my flight is cancelled. I’m then put onto a later flight and now that has been delayed by an hour. Take off should now be at the same time I should have been touching down in Montevideo.

My parents are going to be wandering where the hell I am. They must be on their way to the airport now, as it’s a two hour drive from Punta del Este. Will they know I’ve been allocated a seat on another plane?

19.30 – Guess what? My flight has been delayed for the second time. This time, by twenty minutes. My flight is now due to depart at 20.30. Originally, I’d have been home in Punta del Este at 21.00 and here I am, still waiting for my final flight. To be honest, I’m expecting another delay. Not that it makes it any less frustrating.

My poor parents are going to be waiting for ages at Montevideo airport. Selfishly, I hope they are still there and will wait for me. Having said that, I can always get the bus home and ask Dad to pick me up at Punta del Este or Maldonado bus station. It’s a good job the flight time is only 45 minutes!

20.00 – Wahey! I’m finally at my gate, 13C. By the looks of it, the plane is going to be jam packed. Being slightly deaf in one ear is worrying me a little, mainly about taking off and landing. During landing on my first flight, I honestly thought both my ear drums were going to burst! Note to self: don’t fly next time you have a head cold, flu and/or ear ache!

20.05 – So close, yet so still far away. Another delay. The flight is now apparently due for take-off at 20.45. This palaver could test the patience of a Saint!

20.40 – Finally! We’re on the plane… only to be told by the Captain that there’ll be a further delay. The fourth delay, minus a cancellation! Apparently there’s a problem with Air-Traffic Control and the plane is currently waiting for take-off clearance.

The plane is small, but at least there aren’t any propellers in sight! Pretty much everyone on the flight is a businessmen, suited and booted and incredibly annoyed by the delays. I’m sitting next to one them. This guy has the new iPod clipped to his tie and a BlackBerry in each hand! Jammy sod!

My left ear is still playing up, feeling blocked with a throbbing pain going down my neck. Hard boiled sweets aren’t helping either. I’m terrified!

21.00 – Another update from the Captain. Yes, there’s a bit more of a delay. According to him, Air Traffic Control have been delaying flights all day and we’re waiting for a slot for take-off. It was also the reason why my previous flight was cancelled and everyone piled into this later flight.

I know I should have been thinking “it’s better late than never” but all that was swimming through my head was “I should have arrived home by now”.

21.15 and we’re taxiing up the runway!

Home and parents… Here I come!

Argentina to Brazil

Argentina To Brazil

22^nd August 2012

Last night didn’t exactly go smoothly. I was up half the night feeling ill. It must be a cold or flu coming on. Just what you want while traveling! All I want is my nice warm, comfy bed to snuggle up in and sleep.

We’re leaving Puerto de Iguazu, crossing the Argentinian board and into Brazil to Foz do Iguacu. The bus ride is only eight Argentinian pesos, about US$2. Eve and her friend Steph should be arriving late tonight.

Checking out of our little cabin at 10.15, we dragged our cases down the road towards the bus terminal. Quickly checking in a few of the bus companies, none had a bus route to Montevideo, or anywhere in Uruguay for that matter. One company suggested I take three long distance bus rides, two across Argentina and one to Montevideo. Total time on the bus: 30 hours. No, thank you!

It’s hard to believe that no one has a bus service to Uruguay. It’s the only South American country they don’t travel to. Ok, we know the place is a tiny dot on the map but, come on!

First stop on the bus was to pass through Argentinian customs. Luggage must go with you too. It’s a two minute stop, in one door, passport stamped, out another and back on the bus.

Two minutes later and we make our second, longer stop. This time at Brazilian customs. All of us had to fill out Entry Visa papers, get that stamped plus your passport and then wait for another bus. There was a large group of us waiting outside Brazilian customs for about 45 minutes for the bus to arrive. All of us huddled under a tree, staying out of the fierce sun.

Loading our luggage onto the bus again, we started the final part of the bus ride into Foz do Iguacu. Compared to the Argentinian side, the Brazilian is incredibly run down and surprisingly, there’s obviously a lot of poverty.

Not long after we’d entered Brazil there were a couple of surgeries offering everything from implants to botox to liposuctions! I couldn't help but smile to myself.

All of a sudden, the driver slammed on the brakes and the bus screeched harshly to an abrupt halt. Hernan and I were standing and had to quickly grab onto something, anything in front of us. I went crashing into a metal railing in front of me. Turns out, someone on a push bike had cycled out from a side street and crossed over the main road without looking! The bus very narrowly missed him!

Off the bus we had to find out where the hell our hostel is. Hostel Klein. We didn’t have an address or contact number. Hernan popped into the Tourist Information Centre at the bus terminal and got a pamphlet for Hostel Klein. It looks like it’s a well-known place. We couldn’t call as we didn’t have any Reales for the phone, so we decided it’d be best to just get a cab as it was too far to walk.

Walking down the road, looking for a taxi, we bumped into someone who worked for the Tourist Information Centre, who took us to the taxi rank and called for a cab. While waiting we were told a few do's and don’ts about Foz do Iguacu and Brazil.

In Brazil, it’s illegal to hail taxis and for a taxi to pick you up at the side of the road. This is apparently due to the large amount of illegal taxis, many of whom will rob you of everything. The only place to get a taxi is at a designated taxi rank.

Don’t get a taxi over the bridge from Foz do Iguacu to Cuidad del Este, Paraguay. Cuidad del Este is a famous tax free area, popular with tourists shopping for cheap electrical items. Many cross the Brazilian and Argentinian boarders simply to shop for the day. Getting back to the story, many taxis, while crossing over to Brazil or Paraguay, depending on which way you’re going, get held up by armed gangs, half way over the bridge. When you think of Brazil, you mainly think about thieves being tooled up with guns, but we are told they just carry knives, big knives and they won’t think twice about using them on you either. Nice to know! Needless to say, you’ll be robbed of absolutely everything! Of course, the taxi drivers, some legal while others not so legal, are in on the deal and will contact the thieves before setting off.

Fede’s Portuguese has amazed all of us. We imagined he spoke a fair amount due to working on the Mariner of the Seas during Brazilian season, but we certainly didn’t expect him to speak so much and have the ability to hold a conversation about anything other than taking someone’s photo!

Driving through the town, well, city, we headed towards our hostel. Foz do Iguacu is a rundown mess compared to Puerto de Iguazu, Argentina. Poor and run down. Finding the hostel didn’t take too long, but we weren’t exactly optimistic when we saw where we were heading. The area looked one step up from a shanty town, in fact, there were a few partially made (mismatch tin roofs, make shift doors etc.) houses around us.

Pulling up outside Hostel Klein, we were letting off more than a few nervous giggles and “where the hell have the girls booked us into?” The taxi driver really knew how to boost our optimism, telling us “This place isn’t safe. Do you want me to take you somewhere closer to the city centre? The city is dangerous, but this is even worse. You can’t go out here during the evening. Are you sure you don’t want me to take you somewhere else? Somewhere better?” Declining, we pulled our bags out of the car boot and headed towards the entrance of Hostel Klein feeling rather dubious, I might add.

Hostel Klein, the first thing that you notice about the place is the two metre high wall surrounding the perimeter. On top of that, are the two sets of wires on top of the wall with numerous warning signs “Electric – May Cause Death”. Ringing the intercom with camera, we were allowed through the large security gate to be met at the front door. As you can imagine, we were glowing with enthusiasm!

Going to our “room” to drop our luggage off, Hernan summed it up in one word: Orphanage. We were staying in the equivalent of an orphanage. One large room (which we later found out was originally a garage) with 13, small single beds lining the walls. In one corner was a small bathroom for us. 

As it’s out of season, the five of us, when the girls arrive, will probably have the room to ourselves. Thank God! I may sound like a snob, but I don’t fancy sharing a room with a bunch of strangers, especially with a Canon 5D Mark II stuffed into my backpack! As Hernan commented on the way over “you’re not cut out for this type of traveling.”

Next stop was the shopping centre to change Dollars to Reales and get something to eat. We were starving!

Imagine this room with twice as many beds!

20 Hours on a Bus

20 Hours on a Bus

19^th August 2012

In the morning Hernan’s Mom, Maria Cristina, invited me to a Reiki session. Reiki is a spiritual practise developed in the 1920s by Japanese Buddhists. Since then it has been altered along the years from the traditional origins. A technique called “palm healing” or “hands on healing” and is sometimes classified as “oriental medicine”. Practitioners believe that they are transferring universal energy through their palms which allows for self-healing.

It was quite an interesting thing to do. As a cynic, I was honestly surprised. You completely relax yourself and again colours dance in front of your closed eyes. At one point I had cold shivers descending down my body but heat radiated the area where Maria Cristina’s hands were. It was odd, surreal.

Afterwards, much to my surprise, Maria Cristina was crying and told me I was holding on to a huge amount of pain that needed to be let go of. I won’t go into more detail about what she said or whatever huge pain I may be carrying. That little gem, I’ll keep to myself.

With Maria Cristina

In typical Hernan style, he didn’t pack until the very last minute and pretty much forgot everything from his toothbrush to phone charger. As the bus set off from Buenos Aires, Hernan kept piping up, remembering things he’d forgotten. All Fede and I could say was “we told you not to leave it until the last minute”.

It was lovely staying with Hernan and his family. Like I’ve said before, they were truly welcoming and generally great people. Pulling out of the bus station at 18.40, I couldn’t help but feel a little sad to be leaving. Good old Fede had packed more food than clothes, so at least we weren’t going to go hungry on our 20 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to Puerto de Iguazu, Argentina!!

Part of the original plan has changed. Eve has apparently had her passport and visa stolen while in Lima, Peru. Therefore she’ll be delayed while she awaits a new or temporary passport and visa. Now Eve and her friend Steph will be arriving at the Brazilian side, Foz do Iguacu late on the 21^st and crossing over to Puerto de Iguazu (Argentina) the next day. Our stay in Iguazu has been extended, before we all possibly head up north towards Rio de Janeiro.

During our bus ride, Hernan told me we’ll be travelling along a stretch of road called Ruta de la Muerte which means Death Rute. How enthusiastic would you feel?

Night fell upon us quickly and it wasn’t long until we were in the middle of a massive thunder storm. The rain was pelting it down! Being up on the second storey of the bus, we had a cracking view of the storm. The dark clouds lit up grey and electric white while jagged veins of lighting darted towards the ground. At one point a volt of lighting hit on the opposite side of the road. It was one of the most amazing yet terrifying things I’ve ever seen. It was almost unreal. The rumbling thunder that followed straight after was deafening and needless to say, woke a few passengers.

Much to my surprise, the bus was incredibly comfortable. We were sat in semi-beds: seats that lean right back and a foot rest pops out, too. They are pretty much the same seats you’d find in first class on a long haul flight. Lovely! There is of course a downside to sleeping almost laying down horizontally… snorers! There’s always one, or in our case, about three snorers who were sleeping like babies while giving the thunderstorm a run for its money in the noise department! Fede managed to sleep through the entire episode while Hernan and I were tossing and turning, unable to sleep.

We even got to watch a film, a pirate copy of Snow White and the Huntsman – I kid you not! I was dubious of the bad quality but someone standing up in the cinema screening room and walking out, confirmed our suspicions. In my dazed thoughts, I originally thought it was a very small person on the bus until the penny finally dropped!

At 5am we were woken up by someone playing music through their phone without headphones!!

9am - It was announced that the bus had arrived in Campo Asado to refuel and we had five more hours to go until we reached Iguazu. By this point I was close to pulling my hair out from sitting down for so long! 20 hour bus journeys are more of an endurance test!

Five More Hours... Are You Serious!?

12.50 and finally the bus was onto the home stretch with 100km to go. Funnily enough, Hernan, Fede and I were the only ones going to full hog to Puerto de Iguazu. Running up to the front of the bus (on the second storey) we planted ourselves in front seats to check out the view and see where we were going. Not exactly the best idea when the bus is hurtling along, over taking everything in sight despite the blind bends and hills. It was like being on a roller coaster ride… you’d rather not look, but you just can’t help yourself!

100km to go!

Fede, Me and Hernan - Nearly There!

At 15.15 we arrived in Puerto de Iguazu and found accommodation straight away, thanks to a tout outside the bus station. We’re in a little cabin for up to 5 people. As it’s just the three of us, we’re paying $87 for two nights (about $15 each per night). Later on, when the girls join us the price will go up a tad, but it’s still worth it! It’s a good size little cabin with a tiny kitchen, living/dining area with a bed and upstairs are two bedrooms. Bargain, considering hostels and shared dorms were asking for the same amount or more!

The best part of our accommodation has to be the colour of the water – rusty brown! The earth surrounding us is a clay, rusty, red-brown colour and very high in iron. The water is literally being pumped straight from the river and we were even told it was drinkable. I think not!

The only way to brush your teeth!

Time to Blog

Dumping our stuff, we headed straight out in search of something to eat and to have a look around Misiones – Puerto de Iguazu. The sun was shining and the temperature high along with the humidity. It wasn’t long until we found a nice place to eat, Bambu. The food was great along with the prices – cheap! Considering this is a tourist area, it’s very cheap. Much cheaper than Punta del Este and Buenos Aires.

While eating a couple of kids each took turns to come up to the table and beg. Last but not least, an elderly man came over to the table holding something made of clay. “I make clay models of your faces. 40 pesos for a model of your face without your nose and 50 pesos (US$10) with nose”. How can you honestly keep a straight face when someone says something like that to you?! Lord knows how, but we managed to resist such an incredible offer!

I’m having a few troubles carrying around US Dollars. Because things are slightly complicated in Argentina with their currency, Argentinian Pesos, everyone wants US Dollars as it’s seen as more stable. People are literally biting your hand off to take dollars, so you’d think it’d be easy paying for things and exchanging the US currency. Which it is, but isn’t. Instead of giving you a good exchange rate, businesses are giving you the worst possible rate so they can get more dollars out of you!! Fede and Hernan are basically paying for everything while I give them the money in Dollars at the going exchange rate.

A word of advice when in these areas: bring mosquito repellent!! We’ve only been here a couple of hours and the mosquitos have already violated me! Fede’s picked up a couple of nasty bites on his legs too.

While sitting on the patio area having a few drinks, we got talking to a lady from England. Turns out she’s a history teacher from Clapham Junction and lives in Croydon, not far from where I lived. Her and her Peruvian friend have been travelling across South America going to football matches – Montevideo, Buenos Aires, two in Paraguay. Now that is dedication, even if it’s not to one particular team! So her Peruvian friend was having an argument with his 20 year old girlfriend and said he’d only be 10 minutes. One and a half hours later and she was stilling talking to us, having a couple of drinks. Things started to get a little bit strange so we, rather subtly, decided to go inside and get ready to go out for a drink or two.

With Our New Found "Friends"

Leaving the cabin and we were spotted. This time all three were together. We were invited to join them for a drink in a bar they knew. Not wanting to refuse, we joined them. Boy oh boy! Usually you order a drink at a time, especially when it’s a litre of beer. Oh no, this lady was ordering 2 and 3 1litre bottles at a time. We must have had 10 litres of beer plus a cocktail each by the time the bar closed at 01.30! Every time we tried to make a move, more large bottles of Patagonia beer would arrive.

Needless to say, we were a little sloshed by the end of the night. This only added to our laughter when we realized we’d taken a wrong turn and were walking down a dark road filled with transvestites and transsexuals. I honestly thought the man with whopping silicone boobs and blonde hair was female. She/he did have good taste in shoes though…

Wrong Turn

 

Walking Back to the Cabin

 

Hernan and his Computer